It’s time to plan a paddling trip to Canada’s only underwater ghost towns.
The floodwaters slowly started overtaking the land on the banks of the St. Lawrence River on July 1, 1958.
The deliberate inundation of 259 square kilometres on the Canadian side of the river continued for four straight days, partially or entirely swallowing up Mille Roches, Moulinette, Sheek, Wales, Dickinson’s Landing, Farran’s Point, Aultsville, Morrisburg, Iroquois, and the three smaller hamlets of Santa Cruz, Woodlands, and Maple Grove. The lives of those living in these 12 vibrant, essential, and historic communities were disrupted to make way for the St. Lawrence Seaway and the Moses-Saunders Dam projects.
Nearly 550 homes and 6,500 residents were moved in the process; countless more homes, many churches, farms, places of business, and other structures were demolished, and roadways and railroads were sacrificed to the new waters. Eighteen small cemeteries with more than 5,000 known graves were relocated, but most hauntingly, some were covered in glacial till, limestone, and boulders, and left behind.
The scars of this traumatic transition can be found just below the surface—roads, sidewalks, foundations, railways, and fascinating artefacts—and if you’re willing to take a paddling excursion on the river, you can see, touch, feel, and interact with what is left of these historic communities just west of Cornwall.
But taking a kayak, canoe, or paddleboard adventure in these parts is much more than just a history lesson. With a little imagination and guidance, you can go island-hopping, access beautiful remote locations, picnic on a deserted island, and find serenity and solitude at every stroke.
We asked Cobus Termors, a 77-year-old local kayaking veteran who has led outings around the Lost Villages for more than a decade to suggest three paddling itineraries that’ll have you trippin’. Each outing starts along the Long Sault Parkway, a sweet archipelago made up of 11 islands.
DOWNLOAD THE ITINERARIES HERE.
1. The Quick Jaunt
DISTANCE ~10 kilometres
TIME 2 to 3 hours
DIFFICULTY LEVEL Easy
PUT-IN/TAKE-OUT Hoople Island Boat Ramp
THE DEETS If you only have half a day to spend on the water, this is the perfect outing for you.
Starting on Hoople Island, travel north toward what was once the only inland village of the Lost Villages. You’ll clearly see what’s left after the flooding: Wales Island. Keep your eyes peeled downward for signs of the original roadway. As you close in on the northeast corner of the island, you’ll notice the foundation of St. David’s Anglican Church; if the water is low enough, you may find some bricks dating back to the 1880s. Look out for the eerie line of old-growth tree stumps that would have lined the main road, too.
As you continue north, cross under the bridge on “new” Highway 2 and enter into Hoople Bay, a zone defined by cattail marshes and languishing herons. You can continue paddling into the creek going westward but if you’re paddling in the late season, low water can hamper your efforts. Circle back to the take-out when you’re ready.
2. The Rail Runner
DISTANCE ~17 kilometres
TIME 5 to 6 hours
DIFFICULTY LEVEL Intermediate
PUT-IN/TAKE-OUT Parking lot, west entrance of the parkway
THE DEETS This route follows the inside passage of the Parkway. Go east and follow the old Canadian National Railway railway all the way to Wales where you can hop out/off of your craft to explore a little. Continue paddling east until you reach Mille Roches Island, your turnaround point. Variation: You can also go around the island to its western shore where you’ll find Mille Roches Beach—a great spot to sprawl out for a picnic.
On the return leg, consider a pit stop on Hoople Island to stretch your legs. There are two short nature trails, both easily accessible from the shore. The first one you’ll reach is the Butternut Trail (2.2 kilometres); the second, the Chipmunk Trail (1 kilometre) is on the northwestern part of the island.
3. The Scamper
DISTANCE ~25
TIME 8.5 to 10 hours
DIFFICULTY LEVEL Intermediate (but best suited for the paddle fit!)
PUT-IN/TAKE-OUT Woodlands Island (West)
THE DEETS For this outing, consider camping at Woodlands Campground so you can get a sunrise start. You’ll circumnavigate all 11 islands on the Parkway, two Lost Villages (Dickinson’s Landing and Sheek Island), and one hamlet (Santa Cruz).
Start by heading east and follow the old King’s Highway. Fun fact: at low water, you can exit your boat, stand on the road, and give the illusion of walking on water! Pass over Santa Cruz, a small hamlet populated with tourist-friendly cottages and confectionaries.
Move onward to Dickinson’s Landing where you may see the remnants of the town’s bustling industry: the brickyard, carriage factory, grist mill, six taverns, and five hotels. Head north between Dickinson and Heriot Island to see some pretty views from the inside passage of the Parkway before heading towards Bergin Island, a breeding ground for cormorants. You’ll then reach Sheek Island, originally named O’wasne or “place of feathers” by the Mohawk people.
Prior to the flooding, archaeologists found evidence of a 3,500-year-old Indigenous settlement—including a burial site. They petitioned to postpone the building of the Seaway so their research could continue but were unsuccessful. The village and its important artifacts are now submerged. Backtrack to the starting point using the outside passage. Beware! The current is strong. To be safe, hug the shoreline on your way back.
HONOURING LOSS
“The building of the Seaway was one of the greatest engineering feats ever at that time,” says Jim Brownell, President of the Lost Village Historical Society.
“But the important fact is that human lives were affected by the loss of these important communities.”
Jim would know. His father was born in Moulinette, his mother in Mille Roches. He himself went to public school in both these villages until they were wiped off the map by the Seaway project. “I remember the villages well,” he says wistfully.
It’s important to acknowledge that for the Mohawk people, the inundation destroyed their traditional territory and compounded their loss of resources and quality of life, too. That fact isn’t lost on Jim.
“The loss and trauma were not only felt by people who lived in these villages—the Anglo-Saxon descendants of the United Empire Loyalists—but for the Mohawk people as well,” he explained. “We shouldn’t forget that. They lost their communities again. Huge swaths of their land were covered with so much silt from the riverbeds and their lands were no longer useful either.”
Though saddened by the losses, Jim, also the head and heart of Lost Villages Museum just east of Long Sault, is excited by the uptick in interest in the history of the area.
“It’s no longer just people who live here who want to learn more. Divers, paddlers, history buffs and just folks who have heard something about the villages—so many people are getting out and exploring these communities in place or through our museum and archives.”
“I’m happy that we can continue to honour those that came before us,” he says. “It’s important.”
LEARN MORE ABOUT OUR GHOST COMMUNITIES: LostVillages.ca
